Garments Explained

Fresco & High-Twist Bespoke Suits - Your Summer Staple

Fresco & High-Twist Bespoke Suits - Your Summer Staple

High-twist cloth is as it sounds.   A cloth that has yarns that have been twisted more tightly than normal, and often with more yarns that normal.   As standard worsted cloth has 2 yarns, commonly referred to as 2-ply.   High-twist cloth normally comes in 2-ply, 4-ply, and even 6-ply.  

The 6-ply I found was even accompanied by a picture of some biceps alluding to its inherent strength.  Made me smile.

Drago Sunlit | Wool & Linen Jacket for Summer

Drago Sunlit | Wool & Linen Jacket for Summer

I have a soft spot for linen jackets.   I adore the way linen breathes and its natural tendency to rumpling is something that has grown on me over the years.  And I get hot….

Initially I shied away from linen summer jackets and all their casual connotations.   But certainly, since covid there has been a shift to ever more casual styles and more easy-going fabrics and I feel this is a good thing.   It allows for more expression and more playfulness, and clothes should be enjoyed.

Bespoke linen jackets can be a blessing and a curse.  On one hand, linen is a tough and pliab

The "It's Not Tweed?" Bespoke Jacket

The "It's Not Tweed?" Bespoke Jacket

I’m a big believer in asking pertinent questions to really get under someone’s skin and find out if what they are asking for is really what they want. That’s not to say people don’t know what they want, they often do, but it’s not always communicated directly…more so indirectly.

The Raglan Overcoat is here

The Raglan Overcoat is here

The new Raglan Overcoat is here and ready to order. The “raglan” refers specifically to the shoulder which is very distinct and much more rounded than the “set in” sleeve normally used (see picture below).

My advice always seeks to focus on what the wearer gets out of it and how to use it. The main takeaway should be that it significantly rounds the shoulder line, therefore casualizing the coat as a result. As such this style of coat is very adept at crossing the weekday and weekend divide but always erring towards the casual.

A Rainy Day in Birmingham - An Outfit Explained

A Rainy Day in Birmingham - An Outfit Explained

I get asked a lot to explain outfits and to help people put them together. I don’t always feel like i’m best placed to do this, which is silly as i work with clothing and bespoke menswear everyday. But my confidence with clothing is one thing, my lack of confidence in writing is another. But it’s something i do feel can be useful to people who are interested in bespoke tailoring so im willing to put myself out there and try to learn! If there is a writer out there who wants to help then im all ears, but for now you will have to make do with my attempts and ramblings.

Here is my first draft…..all feedback, good and bad, welcomed. Please be gentle.