Merino? Or Tweed? Bespoke Jacket
Inspired by Tweed Bespoke Jacket
Di Pray Merino Wool
I’m a big believer in asking pertinent questions to really get under someone’s skin and find out if what they are asking for is really what they want. That’s not to say people don’t know what they want, they often do, but it’s not always communicated directly…more so indirectly.
One common statement I often hear is “I’d like a bespoke tweed jacket. You know, something to wear with chinos and jeans to the pub”.
Absolutely nothing wrong with that and for some, it’s the perfect choice. But often with a little rooting around we find out that tweed isn’t the best choice.
Our recent seasonal collection features a merino wool, super 110’s cloth by Di Pray that’s a wonderful alternative to traditional tweeds. This might be your tweed bespoke jacket’s best choice.
What is traditional tweed?
Traditional tweed is a heavy cloth and very warm. Great if you are outdoors and shooting clays, but can be warm in a pub next to the fireplace. So it’s good to think about the setting and how you normally feel in your clothes.
It’s also quite spongey and a little coarse in the hand. The coarseness may not bother you, but it’s worth getting your hands on the cloth and feeling it before you decide. If you are a country dweller the feel will likely be perfect. As for me, I’m a city guy so I’m definitely happier with softer and more tactile cloth.
When I scratch through the layers of people's requirements I often find that people are better suited with lighter, softer, and more tactile fabrics but with tweed “inspired” designs. These tend to come in more modern and deep colours, as opposed to traditional tweeds tendency towards lighter greens and browns, and be more at home in a modern wardrobe.
In my opinion (and it is only my opinion) they also have the great advantage of being more flexible as I’ve found them as easy to pair with trousers as they do with jeans and weekend wear.
Our recent seasonal collection has a wonderful brown glen check merino wool cloth by Di Pray. Woven from super 110’s merino wool with a weight of 315 grams it sits firmly in mid-weight jacketing but has an aesthetic of a much heavier cloth. It’ll work a good 10 months of the year and in multiple scenarios and has the pleasurable tactile element I so enjoy.
Its a mid-brown base colour with a deep burgundy windowpane whilst a hint of forest green lingers in the glencheck. I’d recommend using either burgundy or green for the internal lining (see a picture of the burgundy lining at bottom of page)
As soon as I saw the fabric I knew it was perfect for what we do as it ticked so many boxes. When I hear “bespoke tweed jacket” my brain automatically flips to these kinds of fabrics. I’m a sucker for softness.
Its the kind of cloth that people think is tweed, but it’s not tweed. People are surprised by its softness and endeared by its style. But be prepared for the “its not tweed???” comments.
And at £774.99 it’s a steal. But being a seasonal cloth, it won’t last long so get in touch if you are interested.
Sometimes when I talk about good cloth I wonder if I sound salesy. If it sounds like I’m saying something is nice just to sell it. But then I know what I’m like, I know I love good cloth and I know I always have to be honest so the moment of doubt passes. It’s good cloth and a good price and that’s what I like. Its definitely something to consider for your next bespoke tweed jacket.
I’ll always recommend that you take a little time to think through your personal requirements and I’ll help you understand the pros and cons of each choice you have. Traditional tweed might be great for you, but these modern interpretations are a great alternative.
As always, I’m here to help so feel free to ask any questions.
Thanks to Adam for the wonderful photos. You can view his work over at
https://www.instagram.com/adammelvinphotography
For info - The cloth ref is PR0166/8 - £774.99
Other fabrics photographed are
Shirt - Navy oxford by Getzner GE046/6 - £184.99
Trouser - Grey flannel by Drago ref DR0020/8 - £374.99
Prices correct at Sept 2023
Scott
Birmingham’s Best Bespoke Tailors
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Specialists in soft tailoring and men’s bespoke suits and shirts.
