What to Wear on a Rainy Day in Birmingham
Green Suits and Striped Shirts
Making Colour’s Work
I get asked a lot to explain outfits and to help people put them together. I don’t always feel like I’m best placed to do this, which is silly as I work with clothing and bespoke menswear every day. But my confidence in clothing is one thing, my lack of confidence in writing is another. But it’s something I do feel can be useful to people who are interested in bespoke tailoring and how outfits work so I’m willing to put myself out there and try to learn! If there is a writer out there who wants to help then I’m all ears, but for now, you will have to make do with my attempts and ramblings.
All feedback, good and bad, is welcomed. Please be gentle. Either drop a message in the comments or message us here.
For me this day summed up England in a nutshell. Prepare for good weather, plan in advance…..get rain. It happens every time and is something we have to deal with.
We had planned a wide and varying street shoot showing the clothes in action, but instead got a bucket load of rain and had to adapt.
In essence, this sums up bespoke tailoring, and where I feel we are heading with it. Having clothing that can adapt (up to a point) is crucial these days. But yeah, it would have been nice to have had a coat. Our showerproof car coat springs to mind.
This outfit is based on some of our key principles and keeps things pretty simple. There is a distinct focus on colour and letting each part plays its role.
The green fabric is a Guabello natural stretch in a 260gram twill from our seasonal collection. It’s a little more muted than most of the forest greens around and has a touch of sage about it. A soft colour but with enough depth and bite to work.
Everything else in the outfit is really playing a supporting role and is about letting the colour do the work. It’s something we really believe in and often bring up in our consultations. When you have a colour that is so distinct and so utterly unique…..then let it be. Don’t have the outfit fight for attention and don’t take the viewer’s eye in another direction. It’s all about the colour.
I’ve never got on with pocket flaps on a jacket. I carry many items and have my hands in and out of the pockets so often the flap is always half in and half out making the outfit look unkempt. I’ve long been a fan of removing the flaps, as much for functionality as for style, so I suppose it’s also somewhat fortunate that they happen to be a great choice for my height too. Being on the shorter side removing the bulk of the flap helps to elongate the jacket. So as well as being functional they also fit in with my build. And as I like the aesthetic it’s a no-brainer.
The lining is a lovely mid-brown silk with a shimmer from our in-house collections. It was chosen to match the hue of the green fabric and provide harmony and balance. Often, if you want harmony then you are best served to match the depth and colour across a garment and it’ll look well-balanced. I know some folk might want something to stand out more, and that’s fine, but for me, this was just perfect.
Everyone who knows me knows about my love of brown colours. I think in part it stems from its ability to pair wonderfully with the menswear basic colours of grey and blue and I couldn’t resist finishing this outfit off with it inside. It’s the same lining I used on my houndstooth Crispaire bespoke suit but shimmers that little bit more when paired with green. When I find something I like I have no fear of using it often. If it works, it works….as they say.
I also added belt loops which is something I rarely do. I love the way side adjusters lengthen my legs and give a long, unbroken line from hem to waist. But the depth of the green works wonderfully with brown so I added the loops so I could use a belt. I know it diminishes my height a little, but I’m okay with the trade-off. That’s really what tailoring is all about. Understanding the pros and cons of what you are doing and making it work for you. It’s something you get better at over time.
Made in our signature soft style with soft shoulders and “spalla camicia” sleeve heads, the jacket is finished with 1mm edge stitching. The stitching really stands out against a plain background and when plumping for a plainer colour it’s these small details that can really finish it off.
The shirt is another one from our seasonal collections and is a linen & cotton blend with a wide blue stripe. I don’t own many wide stripe shirts as my penchant is for large check jackets which can clash with this width. But as my wardrobe grows I’m finding I have more options and this thickness is now supported by a lot of textured plains in the wardrobe.
I can already hear some people baulking at linen…..in autumn! I hear you, but I also like the texture and breathability. I also find summer extending more and more, with warmer days creeping into October and can see myself wearing this blend more regularly.
I would normally have this style of shirt fabric made up with a button-down collar in the classic oxford style. But from time to time I do like to dress it up and add a tie so plumped for a classic Windsor on this occasion.
I’m also living in loafers almost every day. It’s getting a little silly how often I reach for them. The style seems to suit my foot shape well and the lack of seam across the toe area really helps them mould around my foot. My classic dark brown Berwick 1707 loafers were an obvious choice. They were recommended by a good friend and client, Nathan, over the summer. And he was right…..you never take them off. Crockett and Jones also do a lovely version, however, their lasts are a little narrow for me but worth checking out too
I love taking inspiration and advice from clients, friends and fellow passionate’s. Keeping open, learning, and trying new things is exciting. And even more so when you find something that is just perfect for you.
And to those that feel green is step too far. It works great down the pub. The current trend towards exposed brick and rustic-style boozers works a treat as a backdrop. I’d love to say we planned it that way…..but it was just the driest place around (and served beer).
CLOTHES WORN
Suit - 2pc Guabello Natural Stretch GB0003/8 - £949.99
Shirt - Getzner Linen and Cotton GE194/7 - £184.99
Shoes - Scott’s own Berwick1707 Dark Brown Suede
Thanks to Ben and Adam for the wonderful photos. And thanks to Kena for the support and patience.
And thanks to GWA Birmingham for not kicking us out whilst it chucked down outside.
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Colmore Tailors are specialists in soft tailoring and men’s bespoke suits and shirts.
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